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Former 'Wurzelbunker' celebrated 100th anniversary in May |
| "Only about 20% of our guests are vegetarians, the other 80% are part-time vegetarians," junior manager Rolf Hiltl answered my questions. Is it the excellent reputation of the vegetarian restaurant in the Sihlstraße 28 or what is the reason why every day, approximately 1200 (!) guests eat a vegetarian meal at the Hiltl Vegi. About a year ago, the EVU secretariat was confronted with this 100th anniversary for the first time when the SVV (Swiss Vegetarian Union) inquired whether the Hiltl Vegi was indeed the oldest vegetarian restaurant in Europe. |  EVU President Marcel Hebbelinck and his wife Diane at the celebration in Zurich. |
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Inquiries of, among others, Maxwell Lee, long-time IVU secretary, showed that the 'Vegetarierheim' founded in 1898 was indeed the oldest vegetarian restaurant in Europe open without interruption (other restaurants were closed during World Wars I and II).
A difficult start
During the years to come, mismanagement and the fact that vegetarians at that time were despised as grass and grain nibblers led to losses. Apparently, certain guests only entered the restaurant through the back door in order not to be seen. In 1901, Ambrosius Hiltl contracted such a severe case of joint rheumatism that he could no longer work as a dressmaker. At about the same time Dr. Max Otto Bircher-Benner, doctor and nutrition expert, opened a clinic in Zürich where he cured his patients from all over the world with mainly a raw-food diet. Ambrosius Hiltl began to study the teachings and health rules of Bircher-Benner, proceeded to renounce meat and accompanied his friends to the 'Vegetarierheim'. His rheumatism disappeared with astounding rapidity. In 1903, the management of the restaurant which had encountered financial difficulties was offered to the constant guest. Hiltl accepted the challenge in order to show everyone how tasty and varied a vegetarian diet can be. At first, he earned 80 Swiss Francs in addition to free lodging and food. One year later, he introduced one afternoon off per week for the personnel, which made him very popular indeed.
A sample menu in 1903: The Indian influence
Eating with friends, she came to know Indian vegetarian cuisine. Friends brought her exotic spices and foods in their luggage. After the Indian style of cooking was established, even the Indian prime minister Moraji Desai one day was a guest at the restaurant and Swissair ordered Indian dishes for its passengers. The fourth generation of Hiltls
On the occasion of the 100th anniversary, senior manager Heinz handed over the management of the restaurant to his 33-year-old son Rolf, who hopes to run the restaurant in the future with much enthusiasm, new ideas and a positive attitude. A bloody good restaurant From a daily turnover of 35 SFr to a yearly turnover of more than 10 million Swiss Francs - how does one explain such a tremendous success? This is certainly in part due to the iron will of founder Ambrosius to see things through, the innovative ideas of the world congress delegate Margrith and the subsequent introduction of the Indian buffet, but also the opening up towards modern vegetarianism and the many meat scandals and the findings of medicine that a plant-based diet is healthier. During the anniversary celebration, Prof. Dr. med. Rottka of the University of Berlin said "For years we have known that vegetarians live longer." The incomparable salad buffet (50 different salads) and the Indian buffet (25 specialties) alone make for 50% of the turnover. 30 à la carte entrees and 10 fruit juices are also on offer. Quick service and value for money are the new goals of Rolf Hiltl. He has managed to make particularly many young and male (40%) guests feel at home at the restaurant. Rolf Hiltl: "Kids and teenagers in particular often find it disgusting when others still eat meat." A staff of 80 people, 25 of them in the kitchen, work to serve the 1200 daily guests. During a celebration, town president Estermann stated that with its imaginative, varied and tasty dishes, the Hiltl had helped vegetarian cuisine achieve a breakthrough in Zurich. Recently, the particle 'Vegi' disappeared from the name of the restaurant. It remains to be hoped that no further adaptations will follow and that since the descendants of Ambrosius describe themselves as 'part-time vegetarians', at least non-vegetarian food items will not be added to the menu.
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